We toured the Colorado National Monument via Rim Rock Drive in July of 2017 with Mike’s parents. Colorado National Monument is located near Fruita, Colorado, just west of Grand Junction, off Interstate I-70. The monument showcases fabulous rock formations carved by the Colorado River which flows through the Grand Valley 2000 feet below. We knew we had to come back to explore the red rock, high plateau and canyons located in this 32 square mile monument. We visited over Memorial Day Weekend 2018 for hiking. We stayed at the Monument RV Park in Fruita, CO which is conveniently located just 2 miles from the northern entrance of the monument. A visit to Colorado National Monument can also be combined with a visit to nearby McInnis Canyon National Conservation Area and/or the Grand Mesa Scenic Byway.
Scenic beauty in Colorado National Monument
Colorado National Monument offers 7 short trails ranging from 0.25 miles to 1.75 miles (one way) which allow visitors to view some of the rock formations and canyons. For those wishing to get a closer look at the region or further from the pavement, the monument has 7 “Backcountry Trails” ranging from 3.3 to 8.5 miles (one way). For those with access to two vehicles, many of the longer trails can be hiked as point-to-point trails. We did not have a second vehicle, so we opted to hike our trails as out-and-backs. We had two days to hike and selected the Black Ridge Trail from the Visitor Center and the Liberty Cap Trail from the upper trailhead. It was hot when we visited in late May with daytime highs reaching the mid 90’s and most (if not all) of the hikes are in full sun. We opted to start early in the day to avoid hiking during the peak midday sun. We started both hikes before 8am and had no problems getting a parking spot at either trailhead.
Black Ridge Trail
The Black Ridge Trail is a moderate trail that travels 5.5 miles one way from the Visitor Center to the shared trailhead with Liberty Cap Trail at elevations ranging from 5,790 to 6,730 feet. We opted to park at the Visitor Center and found the trailhead directly across Rim Rock Drive. We headed up a gravel road which shortly turned into a dirt trail. This is the park’s highest trail and it follows the up-and-down terrain of Black Ridge. Along the trail are views to the west to Utah’s canyonlands and east to the Grand Valley and Grand Mesa.
View on the Black Ridge Trail
Another view from the Black Ridge Trail
Black Ridge is the highest in the Monument
After a short distance the trail crosses into McInnis Canyons National Conservation Area for a section. The trail climbs to the ridge and offers outstanding views along the route. We spotted lizards, a desert cottontail, and numerous birds along our route.
Distant red rock canyons in the McInnis Canyons section of the trail
A collared lizard on the trail
We enjoyed the blooming cactus showcasing pink, yellow and red flowers. We also saw Indian paintbrush, and other regional wildflowers. This trail is great for expansive views.
Cactus blooms added a splash of color
A splash of yellow in the desert
Liberty Cap Trail
This is a 7 mile one-way mostly moderate trail located from 4,800 to 6,550 feet elevation, with a steep section at the lower trailhead. We opted to hike from the upper trailhead which has numerous parking spaces and 2 vault toilets. This trail winds across the gently sloping Monument Mesa though pinyon and juniper forest and sagebrush flats for 5.5 miles to the Liberty Cap rock sculpture. Liberty Cap Trail continues 1.5 miles to the Grand Valley and the lower trailhead. The trail drops steeply over the last two 2 miles to the lower trailhead located at the valley floor.
Liberty Cap Trail travels through sage and juniper-pinyon forest
Liberty Cap
This trail provides an up close look at the vegetation of the region including: Juniper and Pinyon Pines, Sagebrush, Mormon Tea, and Serviceberry. We also spotted cacti and some wild flowers. Along the trail we saw lizards, birds and a squirrel. There are sections which offer expansive views of the Grand Valley and the monument canyons.
Pinyon and Juniper forest dominates Monument Mesa
This trail offers expansive views of the Monument, Grand Valley, and the distant Book Cliffs
Along Liberty Cap Trail
We also spotted areas with cryptobiotic soil. This soil may be more fascinating and more important than any other desert feature. This dirt is alive! It consists of soil, cyanobacteria, lichens and mosses which are important in the desert to prevent erosion from wind and water. Unfortunately, humans can destroy cryptobiotic soil crust and often do so without meaning to. Vehicle tracks, bicycles, and footprints are extremely harmful – even a single footprint can kill the soil crust immediately below. Continuous pressure can break up the crust. Then, rain or wind can scatter the pieces. Impacted areas may never fully recover. Under the best circumstances, a thin veneer of biological soil may return in five to seven years. Mature crusts can take 50 years to strengthen. Lichens and mosses may take hundreds of years to recover.
Be careful not to damage cryptobiotic soil which should not be walked on as it is fragile and important to the ecosystem
