Amargosa Valley, NV – A recognized wetland of international importance, Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge (NWR) was named after the galleries of ash trees described in expedition notes from 1893. This desert oasis, a very rare and unique ecosystem is recovering from prior ranching. The refuge was established June 18, 1984. Managed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, the refuge protects threatened and endangered species, many of which occur nowhere else in the world, including the extremely threatened Devils Hole pupfish, the Ash Meadows pupfish, and the Warm Springs pupfish. Pupfish are very small with the average length of about 1.5 inches and are especially noted for being found in extreme and isolated situations. Ash Meadows NWR encompasses over 23,000 acres of spring-fed wetlands and alkaline desert uplands.
Pupfish are one of the protected species at Ash Meadows NWR
This area once was part of a ranch that pumped increasingly more groundwater every year to maintain their ranch. Water levels began to drop in Devils Hole, a deep limestone cavern in Ash Meadows that is now a detached unit of nearby Death Valley National Park. This posed a serious threat to the Devils Hole pupfish, a federally listed endangered species that depends on adequate water levels for feeding and reproduction. The Devils Hole pupfish can only be found in Devils Hole. The immediate threat to the pupfish initiated a series of court battles leading to the Supreme Court’s 1976 decision to limit pumping of existing wells and prohibit the installation of any new ones. Eventually the land was sold to U.S. Fish & Wildlife.
The refuge protects wetlands
Boardwalk on the Crystal Springs loop
Crystal Spring is fed by an aquifer, the earth’s geothermal energy keeps the springs at 87°F year-round
Refuge wetlands
We walked several trails to observe the wildlife and plants: Crystal Spring area (0.9 mile loop), Devil’s Hole area (0.6 miles) and Point of Rocks area (0.5 mile loop). There is a nice looking visitor center we were unable to tour because of COVID restrictions. Our best views of pupfish were in the Kings Pool in the Point of Rocks area.
The only Devils Hole pupfish we got to see was this picture
Access to the area around Devils Hole is highly restricted
Devils Hole from the fenced in viewing area
During the winter months, when we visited, the refuge can appear to be a desolate place. The trees are bare, the grasses are brown and most of the animals are still in their winter sleep. But winter is an opportunity to see a different side of the refuge. The pupfish still frolic in brilliant Caribbean blue waters and on cold winter mornings the steam rising from the warm springs gives the refuge a mystical feel. Birds flit about. If you’re really lucky, you might get to see a desert bighorn or bobcat.
Boardwalk in the Point of Rocks Area
Phainopepla in the Point of Rocks area
Kings Pool in Point of Rocks Area
Ash Meadows pupfish in the Kings Pool, blue fish is the male
We stayed at Longstreet Inn, Casino & RV Park located in Amargosa Valley, Nevada east of Death Valley during this 2022 trip. Previously we stayed on the west side of the park at Boulder Creek RV Resort in Lone Pine, California. During this trip we also:
- Visited “Must-See” Locations in Death Valley National Park
- Visited Ubehebe Crater, Lost Burro Mine, & The Racetrack via 4WD/High Clearance Racetrack Valley Road
- Visited Rhyolite Ghost Town
- 4WD/High Clearance Titus Canyon
- Hiked Badlands Loop, Titus Canyon, Salt Creek Interpretive Trail
- 4WD/High Clearance & Hike Marble & Cottonwood Canyon
