My previous post about Day Hiking in Yellowstone National Park included: Artist Paint Pots, Yellowstone Picnic Area/Specimen Ridge, Rescue Creek, Trout Lake, Slough Creek, Beaver Ponds, Hellroaring Creek, Mary Mountain, Pelican Creek and Fairy Falls Trails. During our 2017 trip we completed three more hikes which are covered in this post: Mount Washburn, Bunsen Peak, and Elephant Back Mountain Trails. All three offer high vistas with sweeping views of spectacular scenery. All three trails are located in bear habitat so make sure you are familiar with Bear Safety. We used Roger Anderson and Carol Shively Anderson’s, “A Ranger’s Guide to Yellowstone Day Hikes” for our hike selection. We like this guide because it includes interesting naturalist notes about what you are seeing along the hikes. When visiting Yellowstone, we usually stay at either West Yellowstone’s Grizzly RV Park or Gardiner’s Rocky Mountain RV Park.
Mount Washburn
For fantastic 360 degree views that include most of Yellowstone National Park, hands down this trail is my favorite. From the top you can see Yellowstone Lake, the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, the Central Plateau, Hayden Valley, Lamar Valley, and all of the surrounding mountain ranges. On a clear day you can see the Grand Tetons! Unfortunately our visit was hazy due to the forest fire smoke of the Pacific Northwest, but it was still worth it.
Lake Yellowstone and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone from the trail
This strenuous 6 mile roundtrip hike gains 1,400 feet in 3 miles. This route starts from Dunraven Pass located on the Grand Loop between Canyon and Tower-Roosevelt. The parking lot is fairly large and offers a vault toilet, but it is a very popular trail and parking can fill up early. There are several pullouts on either side of the parking area that latecomers use to park while hiking. There is a second route up Mount Washington that starts from the parking lot at the end of Chittenden Road which is only slightly longer. Due to its high elevation, this trail is usually snow covered through the first part of summer, so mid-July through September is the best time to hike it. This trail has full sun exposure, so bring sunscreen and plenty of water. We started at about 8:30am while it was still chilly and it was fairly cool until about 10 or 10:30am.
The trail heads uphill quickly and soon provides views of the surrounding valley and mountains. The trail includes many switchbacks. You will pass some large meadows with gorgeous wildflowers which peak between late July and early August.
View of the surrounding valley early on the trail
There were still wildflowers on August 31
The views along this trail keep improving as you go up. You reach the lookout tower on Mount Washburn at 10,219 feet. Hikers are welcome to use the bottom two levels of the lookout tower to take in the views. The first level is enclosed and windowed with signs that identify all of the surrounding peaks and and geographic features. The next level up has a outdoor platform which allows panoramic viewing. One other unexpected treat was a bathroom!
Mount Washburn Fire Lookout
View of the Grand Loop Road near Dunraven Pass and surrounding mountains
Layers of the Absaroka Range viewed through forest fire haze
Looking back at some of the lower section of trail with Hayden Valley in the upper left corner
Overlooking the final trail leading up to the lookout (left) and the Grand Loop Road (right)
Another view from Mt Washburn Trail
In addition to fabulous views, this trail is provides the opportunity to see some of Yellowstone’s wildlife in their natural environment. During our uphill hike, we ran into several female bighorn mountain sheep who were feeding along the trail. We saw several of these sheep lower on the trail on our hike back down.
Two female bighorn sheep on the trail. Both males and females have horns, but the horns of males are much larger
Female Bighorn Sheep from the trail
On our return hike, as we were heading down one of the switchbacks, I noticed movement in my peripheral vision on my right side, which was uphill. I turned to check it out and realized a mid sized black bear was paralleling us but also working its way downhill which meant it would cross onto the trail shortly in front of us. The bear was less 50 yards away. I told Mike and another person nearby on the trail that there was a bear and we stopped and backed up a bit. The bear continued on its downhill path. We noticed hikers further down the trail coming toward us that had rounded a corner and were on a collision path with the bear and yelled and got their attention. We let them know a bear was headed their way and they also stopped. The bear came down onto the trail in between our two groups. It started heading down the trail but saw the other group and turned back uphill toward us. After considering its options, the bear headed off the trail on the downhill (our left) side and quickly climbed a tree and began eating pine cones, giving no more attention to us silly hiking bipeds. We watched the bear for a short time and then passed it and continued down the trail.
I spotted this black bear less than 50 yards uphill from us and the trail
The black bear decided to come down to the trail
Black bear on the trail
Bunsen Peak
This is another hike with spectacular lofty views that include the Gallatin Range, the Hoodoos, Swan Flats, and the Mammoth Hot Springs area and town. Bunsen Peak Trail is strenuous 4 mile roundtrip out and back that climbs 1,300 feet in 2 miles. The trailhead is located 5 miles south of Mammoth Hot Springs at the parking area signed for Bunsen Peak on the east side (a left turn heading south) of the road between Mammoth and Norris. For a longer hike, this can be made into a loop that continues to Osprey Falls and then returns via a dirt road. This will add 800 feet down and then back up to the falls in addition to the climb up and down Bunsen Peak. This is another hike that has significant sun exposure, so start early and take plenty of water.
Bunsen Peak from a pull out on the Grand Loop Road
From the parking lot the trail climbs gently through sage to the trailhead information board before heading in and out of forest. From one of the first turns the cantilevered section of the Grand Loop Road is visible. Once the trail climbs out of the lower dense forest it weaves in and out of open sage and sparsely treed sections. Higher up the switchbacks views of Mammoth Hot Springs begin to open up. The trail surface becomes increasingly rocky and there are large sections of loose talus which require some attention to footing.
The trail travels through open sage brush meadow
Electric Peak in the Gallatin Range from the trail
Cantilevered section of the Grand Loop Road from Bunsen Peak Trail
The Hoodoos from Bunsen Peak Trail
Switchbacks on the trail
The bright white travertine terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs and town are visible from the trail
Spires along the trail
There is a small radio tower and building at the top which is not open to hikers. The area behind the building provides good viewing of the region. I recommend continuing over to the next high point which has four concrete pilings and has even better views. The pilings provide a nice spot to sit and take it all in. We returned back down then same trail.
View of the Gallatin Range from the top of Bunsen Peak
Another view from the top of Bunsen Peak with Swan Flats in the valley below the Gallatin Range
Elephant Back Mountain
This 3.6 mile moderately strenuous lollipop trail gains 800 feet in 1.5 miles, with 600 feet in 0.8 mile. This trail climbs Elephant Back Mountain through forest and an ancient lava flow to panoramic views of Yellowstone Lake. The trailhead is located at a pullout on the west side of the road 1 mile south of Fishing Bridge Junction and 0.5 mile north of Lake Junction. The trailhead is signed. From the pullout, head south (toward Lake Junction) along the road until the trail turns right into the forest. The trail begins with a gradual climb in old growth lodgepole pines, which are easily identified because they have no limbs on the lower parts of their trunks. These trees were popular in early construction (teepees, lodges, cabins) hence the name.
Lodgepole pine dominate the bottom of Elephant Back Trail
The trail seemed to gain and then level out for stretch several times before reaching the junction for the Loop portion of the lollipop, which is signed at about 1 mile. We chose to head to the left which is less steep but longer. The trail then begins to switchback more aggressively with occasional shining black obsidian to be spotted. As you get higher, the views of Yellowstone Lake begin to open up. At the highest and most open viewing there are 2 benches that can be used to sit and enjoy the beauty, have a snack, or catch your breath. Unfortunately, there was very heavy haze from forest fires in the greater Pacific Northwest during our hike.
Watch for this sign to know you are at the Loop
The volcanic history is alive on this trail
Lake Yellowstone viewed through the trees in forest fire haze
The views open up from the top of the Elephant Back trail
Another view of Yellowstone Lake and the Absaroka Range from Elephant Back
After enjoying the view of Yellowstone Lake, continue through the forest at the higher elevation until the trail loops back around to descend the stepper edge of the loop. Enroute are many social trails taking off but there are occasional markers on trees and the main trail shows more wear. The descent included some steep steps and some loose surfaces. Care and caution will keep you on your feet. You will quickly lose the views of Yellowstone Lake and find yourself back in the thicker forest of the lower elevations. Once back at the Loop sign, take the left to return to the trailhead.
Additional Yellowstone Hiking Trails from our 2020 Yellowstone trip:
- Upper Gallatin River Valley via Bighorn Pass Trail
- Nez Perce Creek (western Mary Mountain Trail)
- Fawn Pass/Fan Creek Trail
- Pebble Creek Trail
- Rescue Creek Trail
- Gneiss Creek Trail
- Riddle Lake Trail
- Chain of Lakes Trail
- Black Canyon of the Yellowstone River Backpacking Trip
- Beula Lake Trail
- Terraced Falls via Cascade Creek Trail
- Bechler Short Loop
