Yellowstone NP, WY – We completed an overnight backpacking trip through the Black Canyon of the Yellowstone River. We had a shuttle vehicle so we chose a 13 mile one-way route starting at Hellroaring Trailhead and ending at Blacktail Creek Trailhead, both located on the Mammoth-Tower Road. We camped along the Yellowstone River, crossed two suspension bridges, and enjoyed outstanding scenery throughout the trip. This hike is included in Bill Schneider’s Falcon Guide: Hiking Yellowstone National Park- A Guide to More than 100 Great Hikes. All of the backcountry campsites and trails can be found on National Geographics Trail Illustrated Maps of Yellowstone. This hike started on #304: Tower/Canyon and ended on #303 Mammoth Hot Springs.
Our route is highlighted
To camp in Yellowstone’s backcountry campsites requires a permit. During COVID-19, the permit was obtained via a phone call to the backcountry office. Information required included entry and exit points, license plate information for the vehicles parking at each trailhead, and requested campsite. Yellowstone National Park only allows one group to camp at each campsite. You can access the list of backcountry campsite availability on Yellowstone’s website which shows 10 days worth of availability by campsite. They also ensure you’ve reviewed backcountry safety information. The permit was emailed to us within minutes of our phone call. With a permit obtained, we were ready to head out. We parked our shuttle vehicle at Blacktail Creek Trailhead (located 6.7 miles east of Mammoth/11.1 miles west of Tower) and headed to the Hellroaring Trailhead. We had beautiful weather for day 1: plenty of sunshine, blue sky, and a high of 75 degrees.
At the Hellroaring trailhead
The Hellroaring Trailhead at 6,540 feet elevation is located 14.3 miles east of Mammoth or 6.7 miles west of Tower. There is a good sized parking area at this trailhead. We got our backpacks from the Jeep and headed to the trail. Hellroaring Trail drops about 800 feet over the first mile where it reaches the first suspension bridge of this trip. The bridge spans the Yellowstone River. High above the river I could still hear the roar of the whitewater far below.
Our first glimpse of the Yellowstone River from Hellroaring Trail
The area we would be hiking
The first suspension bridge over Yellowstone River from Hellroaring Trail
Karla crosses the bridge
Yellowstone River from the bridge
After crossing the bridge, the trail passed several junctions (Buffalo Plateau/Coyote Creek, Campsites, and the Stock Bridge) in the next mile following sign to the Ford. We traveled across open sagebrush meadows and soaked in the expansive views of the region. At 2.0 miles we reached the Hellroaring Creek Ford.
Along Hellroaring Trail
Enroute to Hellroaring Creek
Hellroaring Creek can be a very dangerous ford, especially in early season. The creek bed is littered with large boulders making footing tricky, especially in deep water. There is signage recommending against using the ford and for good reason. Summarized from “Death in Yellowstone: Accidents and Foolhardiness in the First National Park” by park historian Lee Whittlesey: On July 18, 1982, James Wilkerson of Tennessee, 19 years of age, entered the water and attempted to ford Hellroaring Creek to assist a female companion who was having difficulty in the water. He was swept downstream. A friend remembered that James looked back with a bewildered expression, the last they saw of him. The Hellroaring enters the Yellowstone River less than 1/2 mile downstream. The woman was swept to safety, he was never seen again. It was a very heavy snow year and creeks and rivers ran high from snow melt. Fortunately, in late August when we completed our trip, the water level was less than knee height. There was a noticeable current, but we both felt the ford was easily manageable. If unable to ford, use of the upstream stock bridge adds just under 4 miles to the route. We purposefully left our first day mileage low in case we were uncomfortable with the ford when we reached it, in which case we would’ve used the bridge.
Karla fords Hellroaring Creek in late August
Photo from Reed Youngbar on www.outdoorproject.com of fording Hellroaring earlier in the season
Signs at the ford advise against crossing Hellroaring Creek
After safely fording Hellroaring Creek, we joined the Yellowstone River Trail. Soon we spotted our first bison off to the right of the trail. He was a good distance from the trail and was not concerned by our presence. We hiked on across open sagebrush meadows, marshy grass areas and began to climb. The next two miles of trail climbs about 500 feet to a trail highpoint of 6,300 feet with intermittent views of the canyon and Yellowstone River. We ran into several bison shortly after we began climbing. Of course, one of the bison was laying less than 10 feet from the trail. We took a detour around him up a steep sagebrush slope.
Black rock along the Yellowstone River Trail similar to sections of the canyon walls
View along the Yellowstone River Trail
We saw a number of bison along the Yellowstone River Trail
Grassy meadow along the trail
The Yellowstone River Trail area is winter range for elk, bison, and deer. In addition to death from the elements, other animals are taken by bear, wolves, and cougars in this region. As we traveled through the area, we saw a large number of skulls and other bones which bore witness to the large number of animals that perish here.
Bison skull spotted along the trail
Elk skull and bones document the harsh Yellowstone environment
From the highpoint, the Yellowstone River Trail descends to the river, reaching Little Cottonwood Creek at 4.2 miles. The descent included steep sections of narrow trail with loose surface. At the campsite near Little Cottonwood Creek we spotted a collection of elk skulls with antlers. We continued descending and got to Cottonwood Creek. Our campsite, 1R1, was located shortly after Cottonwood Creek about 6 miles from the Hellroaring Trailhead.
The Yellowstone River Trail climbs above the canyon
Heading uphill through a meadow
Yellowstone River canyon in the distance
High meadow from the trail
Elk skulls and antlers at the Little Cottonwood Creek campsite
Yellowstone River from the descent
Another view of the Yellowstone River from the descent
Yellowstone RIver
Campsite 1R1 was located between the trail and the Yellowstone River. It sat on a grassy bench about 30 feet above the river. There was a large area that was clearly used for meal preparation and eating located very near a bear box. About 100 yards from the bear box was a clearing obviously used for tents. Most backcountry campsites do not include a bear box, but instead include a food hanging pole that looks like a large “H” with the center pole at least 20 feet off of the ground. We had a great view of the Yellowstone River from our site.
Yellowstone River bend view at our campsite
Trail between food and tent areas at campsite 1R1
Our site had a bearbox to safely store food and other scented items
We set up camp. After collecting water from the Yellowstone River, we filtered it to replenish our supply and to provide water for dinner and breakfast. We spent the rest of the day relaxing in the wilderness. Sunset was shortly before 8pm. Temperatures dropped fairly quickly. We estimated the overnight low was around freezing. We did not see any wildlife in/from camp, but did enjoy a bright moon which helped with visibility after dark. After breakfast we packed up camp. As we were finishing, it began to drizzle.
Karla collects water to filter from the Yellowstone River
Our tent and surroundings at campsite 1R1
We had a bright moon
We began our 7 mile hike out to the Blacktail Creek Trailhead. We continued down the canyon through open meadows and forested areas and enjoyed views of the canyon walls. There were sections of black stone, thus the Black Canyon of the Yellowstone name. We reached the junction and our turn onto the Blacktail Creek Trail in about 3.5 miles from camp and the second suspension bridge of the trip 1/4 mile later.
Yellowstone River on the morning of day 2
Canyon wall and the river
Black Canyon of the Yellowstone, day 2
Basalt columns along the canyon rim
The second suspension bridge on Blacktail Creek Trail
We crossed over the suspension bridge to the southern side of the Yellowstone River and began the 3.5 mile/1,200 feet climb up Blacktail Creek Trail. Switchbacks gain the first 500 feet fairly quickly and the rest is gained gradually as you climb the drainage. The trail passed through sagebrush meadows after climbing through some pine forest. We spotted a lone pronghorn near the top of the climb.
Mike crosses the suspension bridge
Yellowstone River from the bridge
Climbing Blacktail Creek drainage
Looking back toward Yellowstone River and canyon from Blacktail Creek Trail
Sagebrush meadow along Blacktail Creek Trail
Pronghorn we spotted from the trail
It rained for our entire 7 mile hike back to our shuttle vehicle. At the car, the temperature read 39 degrees. We were thankful for our rain jackets. Views the second day of this trip were gray and cloudy. We enjoyed this trip’s scenery, wildlife and close-up look at the Yellowstone River canyon.
Mike hikes out Blacktail Creek Trail in the rain
While visiting Yellowstone National Park this trip, we stayed at the Yellowstone Grizzly RV Park in West Yellowstone, Montana. We also hiked a number of other trails including:
- Riddle Lake
- Chain of Lakes (Cascade, Grebe, and Wolf)
- Gneiss Creek
- Fawn Pass/Fan Creek
- Rescue Creek
- Pebble Creek
- Upper Gallatin River/ Bighorn Pass Trail
- Nez Perce Creek (Mary Mountain West)
During prior trips to Yellowstone we’ve also hiked:
- Artist Paintpots, Yellowstone River Picnic Area/Specimen Ridge, Rescue Creek, Trout Lake, Slough Creek, Beaver Ponds, Hellroaring Creek, Mary Mountain Trail, Pelican Creek, Fairy Falls
- Mount Washburn, Bunsen Peak, and Elephant Back
- Garnett Hill Loop, Pelican Valley, Snow Mesa/Hoodoos Loop, Lonestar Geyser, Clear Lake/Ribbon Lake/Wapiti Loop
