Hiking Glacier National Park

Montana’s Glacier National Park is one of my favorite hiking destinations. We recently spent 10 days visiting the region including an overnight trip to Canada’s Waterton Lakes National Park which borders Glacier National Park to the north. Glacier and Waterton joined to form the first International Peace Park. This post will focus on hiking in Glacier National Park. For this trip we chose to stay at the St. Mary/ East Glacier KOA as it is centrally located to reach trails at Logan Pass, Many Glacier, and Two Medicine. In the past we have stayed on the west side of the park in Columbia Falls to access west side trails. We prefer hiking on the east side of the park as the hikes tend to have more expansive views and reach alpine in shorter distances. To chose our hikes, we used Eric Molvar’s A Falcon Guide: Hiking Glacier and Waterton Lakes National Parks.

Trail closures and warnings can be found on the Glacier National Park website. Snow can linger at the higher elevations well into July, plan your travel dates accordingly. July and August are heavy visitation months. Trailheads fill up early. Logan Pass Parking Lot can be filled by 8:45am. Going to the Sun Road can be so busy that uphill traffic may be closed as early as 11:30am. We had no problems getting parking spots when arriving at trailheads by 8:00am. All of Glacier National Park is located within Grizzly Bear country. All visitors, especially hikers, should have basic bear safety knowledge. Hikers should carry bear spray that is quickly accessible. I have previously written a post on Safety in Bear Country. Weather can change quickly in the mountains, all hikers should be prepared with extra layers and waterproof outer layers. Carry plenty of water in addition to standard emergency gear.

Author at Logan Pass July 24, 2011

Logan Pass

Highline Trail

The Highline Trail from Logan Pass to Granite Chalet is my favorite hike in Glacier National Park. We made this a loop hike by leaving from Logan Pass, following Highline Trail to Granite Park Chalet and then hiking down The Loop Trail to “The Loop” on Going to the Sun Road and using the park shuttle to return to Logan Pass. As described above, the trail is 11.6 miles from Logan Pass to “The Loop” shuttle stop. The trail is listed as having 830 feet elevation gain and 3,026 feet elevation loss, with a 2,200 foot loss in the final 4.2 miles down to the Loop. This trail usually opens in early to mid July depending on snow and may still include precarious snow crossings well into mid July.

Highline Trail takes hikers high above Going to the Sun Road

The Highline Trail starts on the opposite side of Going to the Sun Road than the Logan Pass Visitor Center Parking Lot. The trail starts by descending through some Engelmann Spruce and subalpine fir before winding around a sheer cliff face high above the valley floor and Going to the Sun Road. The trail continues along the side of the mountain through the region known as the Garden Wall due to its steepness and amount of wildflowers. From the Highline Trail, views of the entire region are panoramic and unparalleled. The trail climbs to pass at Haystack Butte before climbing onward to the Granite Park Chalet. The Chalet was built in 1914-1915 by the Great Northern Railroad and is one of only two that remains. Haystack Butte is a popular turn around for those looking for a shorter hike, and would result in a 6.8 mile out and back.

The beginning of Highline winds along the side of a sheer cliff

Looking back toward Logan Pass

Highline Trail above the Going to the Sun Road

Mike traveling along the Highline Trail

Panoramic top-of-the-world views

Highline trail past Haystack Butte

Another view along the trail

Highline Trail

Distant view of Granite Park Chalet

Getting closer to Granite Chalet on the Highline

Granite Chalet was built in 1914-15

This hike is a good area to view wildlife such as bighorn sheep, mountain goats, ground squirrels and sometimes bears are spotted. Mountains viewed along this trail include Mounts Oberlin, Clements and Cannon. You can see Lake McDonald from the trail. Across from Granite Chalet is Heavens Peak.

Surrounding mountain views

Fireweed along the Highline

View of Heavens Peak from the Chalet

Bighorn Sheep spotted near Haystack Butte

Mountain Goats along the trail

More Mountain Goats along the trail

The hike down to the Loop from the Chalet switchbacks steeply down through an area burned in the Trapper Creek Fire of 2003. This section was dry, dusty and in full sun when we hiked it. Plenty of sunscreen and water are a must on this trail. The higher sections of this hike are usually cool year round due to the elevation. The park shuttle worked well, though we did have to wait for the third shuttle. The first one could only take 2 people, the second was full. Our shuttle was able to pick up 6 hikers. The Loop is the last shuttle stop before Logan Pass.

Switchbacks on The Loop Trail portion

The Loop Trail travels through a burned out section

Berries along the Loop Trail

Another view along The Loop Trail portion

Hidden Lake Trail

This is another popular trail which starts from Logan Pass Parking lot. You can hike a 3 mile roundtrip to the Overlook or opt for the longer 6 mile roundtrip to Hidden Lake. We chose to hike to the Lake, which includes a 780 foot loss that is ascended on the return trip. To get to the Overlook, the trail climbs about 550 feet in elevation. The trail begins immediately behind the Logan Pass Visitor Center. The trail begins by climbing up boardwalks and uphill for 1.4 miles to Hidden Lake Pass. From the trail are panoramic views of the surrounding mountains including Clements, Reynolds, and Bearhat, which rises behind Hidden Lake.

It was quite foggy when we started the boardwalk portion of Hidden Lake Trail

View at Logan Pass in the fog

The fog began clearing along the trail

View along Hidden Lake Trail

This trail is a great place to see wildlife. We viewed mountain goats, bighorn sheep, and marmots along the trail. Bears sometimes are in the area. Hidden Lake is very clear and reflects Bearhat Mountain. The trail was foggy when we began it, but the fog cleared up by the time we reached the lake. This is a very scenic trail.

A young mountain goat in the fog

A marmot along the trail

View of Hidden Lake from above

Mountain reflected in Hidden Lake

Mother mountain goat with radio collar along the trail

Another young mountain goat

A ground squirrel along Hidden Lake Trail

Many Glacier

Grinnell Glacier Trail (description by Mike)

A moderately strenuous trail that gains 1850 feet elevation over 5.3 miles to reach an overlook of Grinnell Glacier. We hiked the route from the Grinnell Glacier Trailhead, however you can shave 3.4 miles off the roundtrip hike by taking two shuttle boats over Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine. But this isn’t a terribly long hike and the trail around the two lakes provides for beautiful views, so I suggest hiking the entire 10.6 miles from the main trailhead.

Grinnell Glacier Trail

My favorite part of this hike is not the actual glacier, but rather the stunning views of Grinnell Lake as you cling to a cliff face high above the water. It’s during this narrow stretch of trail that Jack Hanna had a close call with a grizzly bear. He rounded a blind corner and came face-to-face with a sow grizzly and her two yearling cubs. From less than 10 feet away he successfully deployed bear spray to repel the bruins. This is a great reminder to alway carry bear spray (and be able to deploy it in a few seconds) when hiking in grizzly country. I’m very happy to see many hikers in Glacier National Park are carrying, however some have the bottle tucked into the water bottle holder on their packs, out of reach during a bear encounter.

Grinnell Lake and Glacier

Mike on the trail to Grinnell Glacier

Another view along the trail

A ground squirrel

Beargrass along the trail

Water flowing at the narrow step area helps you cool off

Grinnell Glacier Trail

View of the final ascent of the Grinnell Glacier Trail

Lower Grinnell Lake

When you reach the Grinnell Glacier Overlook you have the option of scrambling down to the glacier to walk on it. But the park service highly recommends against this for safety reasons, and we heeded their warning.

View of Many Glacier Lodge at the far end of Swiftcurrent Lake on the return trip

Grinnell Lake Trail

This 7 mile roundtrip loop takes hikers around Swiftcurrent, Josephine and Grinnell Lakes with several hundred feet elevation change. Grinnell Lake is a glacial fed lake with a beautiful waterfall cascading down from Grinnell Glacier high above the valley floor. The loop starts from the southwest corner of the parking lot above Many Glacier Hotel. Follow signage for the Swiftcurrent Nature Trail and continue to follow the same shore of Lake Josephine back to Grinnell Lake. The trail leads through forest with intermittent views of the surrounding mountains including Grinnell Point, Mount Gould, Mount Wilbur, Altyn Peak, and Angel Wing Mountain. The section from Lake Josephine to Grinnell Lake is an out and back trail. For the return trip we followed the trail on the opposite side of Josephine and Swiftcurrent Lakes.

View along the Grinnell Lake Trail (iphone photo 2015)

Mike crosses the suspension bridge on the Grinnell Lake Trail (iphone photo 2015)

Grinnell Lake, waterfall and Glacier from the Grinnell Lake Trail (iphone photo 2015)

Lake Josephine (iphone photo 2015)

Bullhead Lake Trail

This 6.6 mile roundtrip out and back trail gains about 250 feet. This trail leaves from the west end of the Swiftcurrent Inn coffeeshop parking lot and heads out through the Swiftcurrent Valley past a chain of lakes and Redrock Falls. This trail is also known as the Swiftcurrent Pass Trail, as the trail continues past Bullhead Lake to Swiftcurrent Pass and the Granite Park Chalet. The trail travels through forest and open areas. Lakes along the route include Fishercap, Redrock, and then Bullhead. Redrock Falls is located at the far end of Redrock Lake. This is a very scenic hike. Watch for wildlife, including moose, bears and beavers. We spotted a beaver swimming around Redrock Lake.

View along the Bullhead Lake/Swiftcurrent Trail

Another view

Fishercap Lake

Beaver spotted on Redrock Lake

Redrock Falls

Another lake view

Iceberg Lake Trail

This 9.0 mile roundtrip moderately strenuous out and back hike leaves from the Iceberg-Ptarmigan Trailhead at the north end of the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn complex among some cabins behind the coffee shop. Parking is available around the Motor Inn Complex. This hike begins through forest and quickly ascends to reach expansive views above tree line. The hike gains almost 1,200 feet of elevation in its 4.5 mile ascent. Iceberg Lake is a striking aquamarine shade associated with rock flour, indicative of the glacier’s work in shaping and grinding the rocky mountain sides in its path. This is a very popular hike and you will see many other park visitors.

View along the Iceberg Lake Trail

View of the Iceberg Lake cirque

Author along the Iceberg Lake Trail

Along the trail

Wildflowers along the trail include fireweed and bear grass. The trail passes below Atlyn Peak. Views of Mount Wilbur open across the valley to the south. The trail crosses Ptarmigan Creek at Ptarmigan Falls. Watch trail junction signs to continue to Iceberg Lake. When we hiked this trail in July 2011 and had to cross several good sized snowfields, including one on a steep slope. The trail continues to climb as it enters the glacial cirque. Iceberg Lake is at the end of the trail and is ringed by 3,000 foot cliffs and talus slopes on the south shore.

Mike crosses a snowfield

The Iceberg Cirque

Iceberg Lake

Two Medicine

Running Eagle Falls Trail

This easy 0.6 mile round trip out and back hike leads to Running Eagle Falls. The trailhead is located on the north side of the road about 2 miles past the park entrance station. The falls are unusual in that they flow over the top during early spring but once that channel dries up, the falls emerge from a grotto located twenty feet below the upper lip.

Running Eagle Falls

Water can be seen pouring over the top and out of the grotto half way up

Scenic Point Trail (description by Mike)

We hiked this trail a few years ago and loved it so much we did it again. If I (Mike) were asked to recommend a single trail to hike in Glacier National Park it would be Scenic Point. To answer why, let me list a few aspects of what I consider make a good trail: stunning views, ideally above tree line; passes through multiple biotic life zones (e.g., montane forest, subalpine, tundra, etc); is not overly crowded; and is long enough/difficult enough to not be taken lightly. This hike possesses all.

View from the Scenic Point Trail

At 8.0 miles round trip with 2300 feet of elevation gain, you typically don’t find tourists wearing jeans and carrying nothing except a single plastic bottle of water on this hike. And since a good portion of the hike is above tree line, where extreme weather can occur at any time, it’s probably best.

Another view from Scenic Point

The hike starts in the Two Medicine area, at a parking area labelled “Scenic Point Hike”. You start out in montane forrest for perhaps a mile, slowly working your way upwards. You then emerge above tree line, and will spend the rest of the hike there, with spectacular views in all directions. This is where the trail gets steep, as it roughly parallels the drainage from the Appistoki basin. Look back occasionally on the ever decreasing size of Two Medicine Lake. After 3 miles and 16 switchbacks (yes, I counted) you reach a saddle that affords the first view of your final goal: scenic point.

Scenic Point Trail sentry above the Appistoki drainage

View of Two Medicine Lake from Scenic Point Trail

The hike now switches from heart pounding due to climbing uphill to heart pounding due to narrow trail with steep drop offs. Ok, I’m exaggerating the narrowness a bit, but those with a fear of heights may want to stop at the saddle. After 0.9 miles a side trail leads to Scenic Point. The main trail continues all the way to the town of East Glacier, which would make for a great one-way hike if you had two vehicles. Hike the steep side trail to the point and enjoy panoramic views down into Two Medicine Valley, including Lower Two Medicine Lake, Two Medicine Lake and Upper Two Medicine Lake in addition to the town of East Glacier.

Looking back across a narrow stretch of Scenic Point Trail after the first saddle

Upper Two Medicine Lake from Scenic Point Trail

The trail across the alpine to Scenic Point

Scenic Point View of prairie to the east of Glacier National Park

View along the trail

Scenic Point view of Lower Medicine Lake

Upper Two Medicine Lake Trail

The Upper Two Medicine Lake can be reached by a 10 mile roundtrip hike using the North Shore Trail that leaves across a bridge from the north side of the Two Medicine Campground. There is parking available at the trailhead. For those looking for a shorter hike, taking the concession boat back and forth across Two Medicine Lake will shorten the hike to a 4.4 mile round trip from the boat dock. We chose to hike the entire trail.

The boat dock at Two Medicine Lake

Leaving Two Medicine campground, hikers cross the bridge and follow the trail as it winds along Two Medicine Lake underneath Rising Wolf Mountain. The trail winds through forest with periodic views of Mt. Sinopah on the far shore of Two Medicine Lake. At the far end of Two Medicine Lake, Dawson Pass Trail heads off to the right and the trails to the boat dock and the South Shore Trail will head off to the left. The junctions are well marked, just follow the signs for Upper Medicine Lake. A side trail leads to Twin Falls. As you near Upper Two Medicine Lake, Pumpelly Pillar comes into view. The views open up as you climb out of the forest. There is a small pond located shortly before the lake. Upper Two Medicine Lake is a bowl surrounded by Pumpelly Pillar, Mt Helen, Lone Walker Mountain, and Mount Rockwell.

The bridge at the beginning of North Shore Trail and Rising Wolf Mountain

Two Medicine Lake along North Shore Trail

Mt Sinopah stands sentry over Two Medicine Lake

Upper Two Medicine Lake Trail

View along the trail

Small unnamed lake that had a moose feeding in it

Male moose feeding in an unnamed lake

First view of Pumpelly Pillar

Pumpelly Pillar

Upper Two Medicine Lake

Some female Bighorn Sheep near the trailhead

Lake McDonald

Lake McDonald Trail

For a close look at the regrowth of a forest following fire, Lake McDonald Trail will lead you through an area burned in 2003. The trail follows the northwestern shore of Lake McDonald. The trailhead is located by traveling 0.8 miles north on Camas Road from Apgar. Turn right at the sign for Fish Creek Campground. Follow the Inside North Fork Road past the campground ranger station to where the road turns to gravel and look for the parking area and information sign. The trail leads through new growth understory, young conifer including lodgepole pines, ferns, and fireweed. Don’t miss the side trip to Rocky Point, which is an outcrop with great views. This hike is an out and back which is 6.6 miles one way with minimal elevation change.

Lake McDonald from the Lake McDonald Trail

Mike crosses a deadfall – a victim of the fire

Lake McDonald Trail

The forest is starting over after a fire

View across Lake McDonald

View at Rocky Point

Trail of the Cedars

This 0.7 mile self-guiding nature trail loops through the old growth forest along Avalanche Creek.The trailhead is located across from the Avalanche Picnic Area on Going to the Sun Road. The entire trail is wheelchair accessible. The trail winds through old growth forest including western red cedar and black cottonwood. Younger trees include western hemlock. The forest floor has ferns and devils club. The trail crosses Avalanche Gorge which has been carved by the waterfall and creek.

Trail of the Cedars

The gorge along Trail of Cedars

Mike on a boardwalk section

A tree root along the trail

Johns Lake Loop/ McDonald Creek

This 3 mile loop trail starts along Going to the Sun Road about 1.5 miles north of Lake McDonald. The Johns Lake Loop Trailhead is labelled. Head into the old growth cedar forest and work your way to Johns Lake at about 0.2 miles. Lily pads and the reflections of Mounts Stanton and Vaught are highlights. Continue following signs and staying on the larger trail back to Going to the Sun Road. Cross over and head to the right and follow trails down to the bridge across McDonald Creek. Cross the creek and head to the left to complete the trail. Views of McDonald Creek include several sections of waterfalls. McDonald Falls is a highlight. The trail emerges onto North Shore Road. Follow along the road and cross the bridge, with a pedestrian walkway on the right side. After crossing the bridge watch for the trail labelled horse trail going off into the woods on the right to complete the loop back to the parking area along Going to the Sun Road.

Johns Lake Loop Trail through old growth forest

Johns Lake with reflections of Mounts Stanton and Vaught

McDonald Creek Falls

McDonald Falls

Head of Lake McDonald

St. Mary

St. Mary & Virginia Falls Trail

The St. Mary & Virginia Falls Trailhead is located along Going to the Sun Road west of St. Mary and past the Sunrift Gorge Parking. The trailhead/parking area is labelled. If it is full, there is a pullout that can accommodate numerous cars just to the east of the designated parking area. St. Mary Falls is located about 1.2 miles from the trailhead. Virginia Falls is reached from the same trail and is located about 1.8 miles from the trailhead. An out and back hike to both falls will total about 3.6 miles with about 600 feet total elevation change. The trail leaves the parking area and descends winding through forest, including sections burned in the 2015 Reynolds Creek Fire. There are several well marked trail junctions along the way. St. Mary Falls are located at the bridge across St. Mary River. After viewing St. Mary Falls continue along the trail to the Virginia Falls. There are a couple of small unnamed waterfall areas enroute. Virginia Falls has a lower and upper viewing area. There is a pit toilet located near the lower viewing area.

The St. Mary/Virginia Falls trail descends through an area burned by the 2015 Reynolds Creek Fire

St Mary Falls

Section of old growth forest between St Mary and Virginia Falls

Unnamed falls along the trail

The Virginia Falls

Red Eagle Lake Trail

The trailhead is located 0.25 miles from the St. Mary entrance station by following a paved road that head south shortly before the entrance station. From the trailhead, we visited the historic Ranger Cabin and Station that were built in 1910. Our original plan was to hike the Beaver Pond Trail which leaves from behind the old ranger station, but the brush was quite overgrown and we were wearing shorts, so we decided to check out the more open Red Eagle Lake Trail, which leaves from the same parking lot. Red Eagle Lake is located 8.1 miles from the trail head and has minimal elevation gain. As we only planned to hike several miles, we headed out the trail until deciding to return for about 3.5-4 miles roundtrip. The trail travels along the St, Mary Valley with intermittent views of the lake. The trail goes in and out of forest and provides a good introduction to the region. This hike is in full sun, so take plenty of sunscreen and water.