New Orleans, LA – We recently spent two weeks in New Orleans, with one week leading up to Mardi Gras Day and another week after. We have written a separate post about Mardi Gras in New Orleans. This post focuses on touring the city. The top three reasons to visit New Orleans are music (think jazz), food, and the French Quarter. We found the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: New Orleans very useful in planning our trip.
The Food
One of our favorite parts of visiting New Orleans was the food. In other cities we often look at reviews of restaurants to make our picks, but in New Orleans we did not have to do that. We started looking at reviews but found that our picks had very long waits so we started picking based on seating availability. We had no bad experiences and enjoyed the food everywhere we ate. While in New Orleans we focused on trying the region’s Cajun and Creole cooking which included: crawfish etouffee, po boys (hearty sandwiches), gumbo, jambalaya, and the muffuletta. Seafood and Gator dishes were common on menus, as well as sausage. New to us was the muffuletta sandwich which consists of a sesame roll split horizontally and covered with layers of marinated olive salad, salami, ham, Swiss cheese, provolone, and mortadella. The signature olive salad consists of olives diced with the celery, cauliflower and carrot found in a jar of giardiniera, seasoned with oregano and garlic, covered in olive oil, and allowed to combine for at least 24 hours.
Café du Monde
A special mention under food is Café du Monde, a world famous cafe. No stop in New Orleans is complete without trying their beignets. The original Café Du Monde Coffee Stand was established in 1862 in the New Orleans French Market. Its menu consists of dark roasted Coffee and Chicory, Beignets, White and Chocolate Milk, and fresh squeezed Orange Juice. The coffee is served Black or Au Lait. Au Lait means that it is mixed half and half with hot milk. Beignets are square French style doughnuts, lavishly covered with powdered sugar. The original location is next to Jackson Square (see below). The cafe is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. It closes only on Christmas Day and on the day an occasional Hurricane passes too close to New Orleans. There is table service seating as well as a take out window around back.
Beignets and cafe au lait at Café du Monde
The original Café du Monde is very popular and frequently has a line
St Louis Cathedral
The St. Louis Cathedral is one of New Orleans’ most notable landmarks. Few cities in the world are so identified by a building as New Orleans is instantly recognized by the cathedral. With its triple steeples towering above its historic neighbors, the Cabildo and the Presbytère, St. Louis Cathedral combined with the green of Jackson Square, General Andrew Jackson on his bronze horse, and the block-long Pontalba Buildings with their lacy ironwork galleries is the heart of old New Orleans. St. Louis is the oldest cathedral in the United States. The first church on the site was built in 1718; the third, built in 1789, was raised to cathedral rank in 1793. The cathedral was expanded and largely rebuilt in 1850, with little of the 1789 structure remaining. As long as there is no mass in progress (they have a sign indicating when not to enter), feel free to enter and view the interior’s stained glass, statues depicting the life of King Louis IX the sainted King of France, murals on the ceilings, and the pipe organ.
Looking up at the triple spires of St Louis Cathedral
Inside St Louis
One of the stained glass windows of St Louis
One of the statues telling the story of Louis IX
The pipe organ in St Louis
The Presbytère
The Presbytère was designed in 1791 to match the Cabildo, alongside St. Louis Cathedral in the French Quarter. It stands today as a beautiful reminder of both Louisiana’s singular past and its vibrant present. The Presbytère, originally called Casa Curial or “Ecclesiastical House,” was built on the site of the residence, or presbytère, of the Capuchin monks. The building was used for commercial purposes until 1834 when it became a courthouse. In 1911, it became part of the Louisiana State Museum.
We toured the Presbytère’s two permanent exhibits which tell two sides of the ongoing Louisiana story—one of celebration and one of resilience. The Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana exhibit offers a window into the annual celebration and rituals of Mardi Gras, a festival that is inextricably woven into Louisiana’s way of life and whose roots extend deep into the Middle Ages. There are parade floats, costumes, and historical throws on display as well as rare glimpses into the secretive social club society from which modern-day Mardi Gras krewes evolved.
A ball gown on display at the Presbytère exhibit
Muse shoes on display at the Presbytère Museum
The Living with Hurricanes: Katrina and Beyond exhibit tells of rescue, rebuilding and renewal. When Hurricane Katrina hit New Orleans’ badly engineered levee system, it resulted in one of the worst disasters in American history, leaving 80 percent of the city flooded and hundreds dead. The exhibit documents the event, the aftermath and southeast Louisiana’s ongoing recovery. With interactive exhibits and artifacts that showcase the spirit of the city’s residents, this is a collection you don’t want to miss.
An actual garage door from Hurricane Katrina showing information about searching the house
Admission for adults is $6. There is a discount if you purchase tickets for multiple Museums (i.e. the Presbytère and the Calibido) at the same time. We did not tour the Calibido, located on the other side of St. Louis Cathedral which includes exhibits of Louisiana’s history. The Cabildo, the Presbytère, 1850 House, Madame John’s Legacy and the New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint comprise a remarkable legacy of structures dating to the 18th century in New Orleans’ historic French Quarter, which is a living museum itself.
Jackson Square
Jackson Square is the heart of the French Quarter. It is surrounded by historical structures including St. Louis Cathedral, the Cabildo, the Presbytère, and the Pontalba Buildings, which are the oldest buildings in New Orleans. Originally known in the 18th century as “Place d’Armes,” Jackson Square was later renamed in honor of the Battle of New Orleans hero Andrew Jackson and is a timeless attraction in the heart of the French Quarter of New Orleans. In the center of the square stands one of three bronze statues of General Andrew Jackson.
Jackson Square with its Andrew Jackson statue can be seen in front of St Louis flanked by the Cabildo and the Presbytère
One of the Pontalba Buildings at Jackson Square, the oldest apartment buildings in the US
Jackson Square is directly across Decatur Street from the Mississippi River and is surrounded by an iron fence. For well over a half-century, there has been an open-air artist colony at Jackson Square. Local artists paint, draw, create portraits, caricatures, and display their work on the square’s iron fence. Some have been there for generations! There were also musical and other entertaining acts performing around Jackson Square. It’s a great place to people watch. Jackson Square is open seven days a week. During daylight savings time it’s open from 8am to 7pm. During winter, it’s open from 8am to 6pm.
Music and art surround Jackson Square
French Market
Similar to some European markets, this historically charming open-air market features shopping, dining, music and local tradition that is uniquely New Orleans. From Café du Monde near Jackson Square to the flea market at the end of Esplanade Avenue, the French Market includes five blocks of local produce, specialty art, handmade crafts, retail shopping and more. One of the most historically famous components of the French Market is called Dutch Alley, a charming pedestrian plaza at Dumaine and St. Phillip Streets. Dutch Alley includes a performance tent, historic statues, the Dutch Alley Artists’ Co-op and the visitor center for the one and only New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park (see below). Here you can find programs and information about special events at the French Market and all things Jazz in the city.
The French Market is a great place to look for souvenirs
One of the most popular attractions at the Market is the fresh Farmers Market Pavilion full of local produce and specialty foods with worldly inspiration. The Pavilion is open daily and includes full service eateries for breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as unique drink, sweets and snack options. In addition to the daily offerings at the pavilion, the Farmers Market also hosts special fresh food markets on Wednesdays and Sundays, bringing in the finest vendors in region with everything from seasonal vegetables to homegrown spices. So whether you’re looking for an exotic fruit or some famous New Orleans pralines to take back home, you’ll find it at the Farmers Market.
Amidst the kiosks and stands of fresh food concoctions, the French Market showcases over fifty local artists and craftsmen. From printmaking to scrubs and lotions, the Market has a unique array of both local and worldly artists who sell their carefully crafted works that each represent the unique and authentic culture of New Orleans. And not only will these artists share their creations, but they love to share their stories and experiences in the city. We met the author Brian Paul selling his novel and film, Bright Dawn Volume One: Book Safe Glacier which chronicles his time spent train hopping and living among hobos. This is a great place to find unique souvenirs and gifts for friends and family.
Inside the French Market
In addition to the multitude of crafts, boutiques and specialty shops along the French Market, the Flea Market hosts merchants from all over the world. This endless strip of open-air vendors presents everything from t-shirts, to handmade jewelry, accessories and photography, representing a diverse community of New Orleans tradition and creativity.
Architecture in the French Quarter
As I am no architectural expert, I have consulted Wikipedia for this summary of French Quarter Architecture. Due to refurbishings in the Victorian style after the Louisiana Purchase, only a handful of buildings in the French Quarter preserve their original, colonial Spanish or French architectural style, concentrated mainly around the St. Louis Cathedral and Chartres Street. Most of the 2,900 buildings in the Quarter are either of “second generation” Creole or Greek revival styles. Fires in 1788 and 1794 destroyed many of the original French colonial buildings, that is, “first generation” Creole. They were generally raised homes with wooden galleries (balconies), the only extant example being Madame John’s Legacy at 632 Dumaine Street, built during the Spanish period in 1788. The Ursuline Convent (1745–1752) is the last intact example of French colonial architecture. Of the structures built during the French or Spanish colonial eras, only some 25 survive to this day, including the Cabildo and the Presbytère (see above), in a mixture of colonial Spanish and neo-classical styles.
Buildings in the French Quarter have history and character
Two-thirds of the French Quarter structures date from the first half of the 19th century, the most prolific decade being the 1820s, when the city was growing at an amazing rate. Records show that not a single Spanish architect was operating in the city by that time; only French and American were, the latter gradually replacing the former as Creole style was being replaced by Greek revival architecture in the 1830s and 1840s.
French Quarter buildings
Another building
Another of my favorite buildings
A street in the French Quarter
A French Quarter balcony decorated for Mardi Gras showcases intricate ironwork
Jean Lafitte National Historical Park
Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve has six sites in southern Louisiana. In the New Orleans area, Jean Lafitte sites are the French Quarter Visitor Center in New Orleans, the Barataria Preserve in Marrero, and Chalmette Battlefield/Chalmette National Cemetery in Chalmette. The park’s three Acadian cultural centers are the Acadian Cultural Center (Lafayette), the Prairie Acadian Cultural Center (Eunice), and the Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center (Thibodaux). While in town, we visited the French Quarter Visitor Center.
The Jean Lafitte National Historic Park has a Visitor Center in the French Quarter
Jean Lafitte’s French Quarter Visitor Center shares the history and traditions of the city and the lower Mississippi River delta through visitor center exhibits and a film. Kids can earn a badge with the Junior Ranger program. The center’s museum store has CDs, videos, collectibles, and books from history to cookbooks to children’s stories. Admission is free. The French Quarter Visitor Center is located at 419 Decatur Street, a short walk from Jackson Square and is open Tuesday-Saturday 9:00 am-4:30 pm. They are closed on federal holidays and Mardi Gras Day. Join a ranger in the visitor center courtyard to discover New Orleans’ history and culture during Ranger Talk, offered at 9:30 am Tuesdays through Saturdays.
Courtyard at Jean Lafit NHP
New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park
Only in New Orleans could there be a National Park for jazz! We stopped in at the New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park Visitor Center at 916 North Peters Street in the French Market (see above). This location has displays on the roots of Jazz Music including European, Carribbean, and West African. The small indoor space and an outside area provide performance venues for programs and musicians. Inquire about musical events around town. In the mood for a world class musical experience? Attend a jazz concert or ranger program at the new state of the art performance venue on the 3rd floor of the New Orleans Jazz Museum (see below), a separate location. Pick up a brochure and take the self-guided “Walking Tour of Jazz Sites in New Orleans” including the Louis Armstrong Park and statue, Sidney Bechet statue, and Black Storyville.
The New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park has several performance venues and exhibits
We took in a program with Big Chief Wild and Big Queen Mary Kay and the Original Wild Tchoupitoulas described as: “Big Queen Mary Kay continues the legacy of her late mother, Big Queen Mercy. As a nine year old, she was present when George “Big Chief Jolly” Landry founded the tribe in 1974, and her family revived the tribe in 2007. This event in the Dutch Alley features the Original Wild Tchoupitoulas Indians with a band, the OWT NAWLIN DAWLINS Baby Dolls explaining their history and culture, and demonstrations of making of a Indian Suit and Badydoll Dress and Umbrellas. Sing and dance with the crowd!” We enjoyed this performance which was supplemented by an excellent exhibit on the history of black masking and the Mardi Gras Indians at the New Orleans Jazz Museum which I’ve described in that post.
Big Chief Wild and Big Queen Mary Kay perform for the Jazz NHP
New Orleans Jazz Museum at the US Mint
The New Orleans Jazz Museum celebrates jazz in the city where it was born. Housed in the historic Old U.S. Mint, strategically located at the intersection of the French Quarter and the Frenchmen Street live music corridor, the New Orleans Jazz Museum is in the heart of the city’s vibrant music scene. The museum is open Tuesdays-Sundays, 10 am-4:30 pm and is closed Mondays and state holidays. This is run by Louisiana State Museums in collaboration with the Jazz National Historical Park (see above). I have written a separate post about our tour entitled New Orleans Jazz Museum at the US Mint.
The New Orleans Jazz Museum at the old US Mint
Museum of Death
We stopped in to check out the unusual and morbid Museum of Death located at 227 Dauphine Street in the French Quarter. Displays covered topics such as antique mortuary apparatuses, cannibalism, serial killers, body bags, and coffins. There are gruesome crime scene photos and letters from infamous serial killers. This place is not for the faint of heart. The museum is open 10am-7pm, 7 days per week and admission is $15/adult. This was our least favorite museum in New Orleans. We both felt the overall temperature was too hot, making it physically uncomfortable to spend time in the museum. Additionally we felt that the museum was trying too hard to be shocking and was set up in a haphazard manner. They seemed to take pride in telling us that some people faint and sold shirts saying “I fainted at the Museum of Death”. If you have a morbid curiosity they have a lot of items on exhibit but we were disappointed with the overall experience especially given the price. No photo taking is allowed inside.
The Museum of Death does not allow photography (I apologize for my reflection)
Hop On/Hop Off Tour
To get a good over view of the city, we took the Hop On/Hop Off Bus Tour which travels through parts of the French Quarter, Central Business District, and the Garden District. There are 18 designated stops including: Jackson Square, Mardi Gras World, Harrah’s Casino, the Superdome, Garden District House Tour, and the National WW II Museum. If you are not familiar with a Hop On/Hop Off Bus, they can be found in many large cities worldwide. In New Orleans they are a bright red double decker bus with an open top for better viewing on the second level. The buses follow a predetermined route and visitors can get on or off at any of the stops along the tour for the day of your ticket which costs $39/adult. They also offer a 3-day ticket which is a better value at $49/adult. The buses run from 9:30 am-5:30 pm every 30 minutes.
A clarinet on the Holiday Inn seen from our tour
A glimpse into St. Louis Cemetary Number One with its above ground tombs. Tours with approved guides are offered
The St. Charles Street Trolley car from the bus
Steamboat Natchez banner
The Mercedes Benz Superdome used as a shelter in Hurricane Katrina is home to the NFL’s New Orleans Saints
One of the many beautiful homes of the Garden District
The former power plant is often used for filming TV shows and movies
A Hurricane Katrina Memorial made entirely of debris from the storm
National WWII Museum
New Orleans is home to top rated National WWII Museum. We spent over 6 hours visiting the museum which is spread out among 4 buildings. We have written a separate post about the National WWII Museum.
The National WWII Museum is spread out over four buildings
Mardi Gras World
We completed a tour and have a separate post about our visit to Mardi Gras World, the Kern Studios exhibit of Mardi Gras Floats and their workshop where they create the fabulous floats and props.
Parade floats are on display year round at Mardi Gras World
Audubon Aquarium of the Americas
New Orleans is home to the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas. New Orleans is also home to the Audubon Zoo and Audubon Butterfly Garden and Insectarium. The Aquarium can be reached by walking along the Mississippi River through Woldenburg Park from the Jackson Square area. We spent a couple of hours touring the Aquarium and enjoyed displays organized in different zones of aquatic environments such as the Mississippi River Gallery, the Gulf of Mexico, and the Great Maya Reefs. The admission includes one entry to a movie at the Entergy Giant Screen Theater located next door. They were currently playing Wild Oceans 3-D. Admission to the Aquarium is $30/adult. If you plan to visit the Aquarium, Zoo, and Insectarium, check out the Audubon Experience Ticket that is $45/adult and provides a discount of about $31/adult over buying the three tickets individually.
The Audubon Aquarium of the Americas
We really enjoyed the Aquarium’s parakeet exhibit (yes, they have birds at their Aquarium)
We saw this tugboat in the Mississippi River on our walk to the Aquarium
Oak Alley Plantation Tour
We traveled outside of New Orleans to visit Oak Alley Plantation, one of many former sugar cane plantations in the region located along the west bank of the Mississippi River. We have written a separate post about our Oak Alley Plantation tour.
Oak Alley features 300 year old oak trees
