As described on their website: “The freshwaters of the Big Cypress Swamp, essential to the health of the neighboring Everglades, support the rich marine estuaries along Florida’s southwest coast. Big Cypress is located about 45 miles west of Miami. Protecting over 729,000 acres of this vast swamp, Big Cypress National Preserve contains a mixture of tropical and temperate plant communities that are home to a diversity of wildlife, including the elusive Florida panther.” It was one of the first two National Preserves in the United States established on October 11, 1974.
Big Cypress borders the wet freshwater prairies of Everglades National Park to the south, and other state and federally protected cypress country in the west, with water from the Big Cypress flowing south and west into the coastal Ten Thousand Islands region of Everglades National Park. When Everglades National Park was established in 1947, Big Cypress was originally intended to be included; however, because the land had not been purchased from its private owners, Big Cypress was ultimately released from the park system.
In addition to alligators, Big Cypress is home to panthers and black bears but we didn’t spot any
Anyone visiting Everglades National Park should also schedule some time to visit Big Cypress National Preserve. We spent two days visiting Big Cypress in January 2018. We accessed the preserve from Naples Motorcoach Resort which was less than a 30 minute drive from the west entrance along the Tamiami Trail (Hwy 41). We first stopped in the Big Cypress Swamp Visitor Center where we enjoyed the informative displays and a short film. From the boardwalk behind the visitor center we watched several manatees playing in a creek. We checked in with the Ranger for road and trail status. Hurricane Irma hit this region hard. Water levels swelled during the hurricane and have remained at unusually high levels throughout much of the region. Many hiking trails and part of the Loop Road remained under water at the time of our visit.
Turner River Road, which begins at the HP Williams Roadside Park, was fully open. We had a picnic lunch at the HP Williams Roadside Park and walked the short boardwalk at this stop. From the boardwalk we saw several alligators, green heron, anhinga, great egrets and great blue herons.
We spotted this alligator from the Roadside Park boardwalk
An anhinga dries its wings
Next we headed up the Turner River Road where we had lots of wildlife viewing opportunities thanks to unusually cold weather. Daytime highs were in the 60’s. Alligators rely on external sources to regulate their body temperature and the cooler temperatures resulted in large numbers of alligators laying out on grassy banks to bask in the heat of the sun. We spotted hundreds of alligators in one day! In addition to alligators we saw hundreds, if not thousands, of birds including: white ibis, great blue and green herons, great egrets, anhingas, and wood storks.
Wood Stork viewed from Turner River Road
Another alligator along Turner River Road
We stopped to hike the Fire Prairie Trail which is about 2.6 miles one way. We parked across from the trailhead and saw two alligators across the waterway from where we parked. We headed back the trail and traveled through the swamp area of Deep Lake Strand. We spotted a white tail deer that came out of the swamp and crossed our trail. Further back the trail we emerged into the more open prairie region where we saw a sea of grass with tree islands of pine and hardwoods. We were surprised to find a vault toilet at the point where the trail emerges into the more open prairie. We really enjoyed the views from this easy trail that is more like a road.
The Fire Prairie Trail is more like a road
White tail deer along the Fire Prairie Trail
Along the Fire Prairie Trail
Prairie in the Big Cypress
This pair of alligators were sunning across from our car
We also drove the first 12 miles which were open of the Loop Road. Along this road we spotted our first Cottonmouth snake. We enjoyed driving along the cypress swamp areas, which have crystal clear water. You can easily spot fish. This section of the Loop Road travels through the Gator Hook Strand and Sweetwater Strand. We spotted white ibis, vultures, herons, a raptor, and egrets along this route.
Cottonmouth snake crossing the road
A raptor watches for prey in the swamp waters along the loop road
During a future trip we would like to meander the Turner River Canoe Trail that starts near the Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center and continues into Everglades National Park to the Wilderness Waterway. I would also like to take a swamp buggy tour. Big Cypress National Preserve has several campgrounds and back country camp sites. The Florida National Scenic Trail has a terminus at the Big Cypress Oasis Visitor Center. Interstate 75 also travels through the northern section of Big Cypress and there are several Recreation Access sites along I-75 which have ample parking to accommodate an RV unless in very heavy use. These sites have access to trails, fishing, and some have boat launches.
