Bozeman, MT – Bozeman, Montana is a small college town located about 1.5 hours northeast of Yellowstone National Park. Bozeman is surrounded by mountains including the Madison, Gallatin, and Absaroka Mountains to the south and the Bridger, Big Belt, Crazy, and Elk Mountains to the north. The closest hikes are located in the Gallatin Custer National Forest, including the Lee Metcalf and Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness Areas. A little further afield are the Lewis and Clark and Deerhead Beaverlodge National Forests. We used the following two hiking guides: Robert Stone’s “Day Hikes Around Bozeman Montana” and Bill Schneider’s “Hiking Montana: Bozeman“. Stone’s book is more comprehensive and includes 110 hikes, but lacks elevation profiles. His elevation gains seem to only take into account the difference between the highest and lowest spots on the hike, but not all of the ups and downs in between. Schneider picked what he felt were 30 great hikes close to town and he has elevation profiles and better directions to trailheads. We spent time here in July 2011, July 2015, and August 2017. We like to stay at the Sunrise Campground in Bozeman which is right off of the highway and close to downtown. While in Bozeman check out the Museum of the Rockies and the American Computer & Robotics Museum. We also took a day trip to Lewis & Clark Caverns State Park.
Hard Scrabble Peak
Our favorite hike near Bozeman (to date), this trail is in the Bridger Mountain Range of the Gallatin National Forest. We love this trail for the expansive views and rocky cirque. This 4 mile roundtrip out and back trail gains about 1,900 feet in elevation on the 2 mile climb to Hard Scrabble Peak. The trail travels through forest until gaining elevation on switchbacks in the drainage between Hard Scrabble and Sacagawea Peak. The trail travels above tree line as it approaches the rocky cirque.
There are more switchbacks leading up to the saddle at 8,963 feet. The trail reaches a fork with the right side climbing up Hard Scrabble Peak to an elevation of 9,575 feet. The views are phenomenal from the top where you can take in 6 surrounding mountain ranges: Gallatin, Madison, Crazies, Tobacco Roots, Elkhorn, and Big Belts. From the saddle trail split, the left fork goes to the summit of Sacagawea Peak at 9,665 feet. While on this trail we spotted a small herd of mountain goats.
Hyalite Creek
This trail leads 5.5 miles (oneway) with 1,900 feet elevation gain to Hyalite Lake, and according to Stone is considered the most spectacular trail in the Bozeman area. Stone writes, “the trail passes eleven waterfalls in a deep canyon with massive cliff walls and majestic peaks. Hyalite Lake is an alpine glacial tarn in a horseshoe shaped basin.” The lake is flanked by Fridley and Hyalite peaks. All of the trails accessed from Hyalite Canyon Road are in the Gallatin National Forest.
The trailed is located off Hyalite Canyon Road. This road is reached by driving south on 19th Street from Main Street for 7 miles to Hyalite Canyon Road and turning left. Continue up Hyalite Canyon Road for 11.7 miles and cross to the far side of the Reservoir and continue along the far shore until you reach a signed fork in the road. Head right for Hyalite Creek Trail and follow it to the end of the road where you will find a large parking area with a vault toilet. There is a hike to Grotto Falls from the same trailhead and both trails crisscross in the beginning. Junctions in the trail are well marked.
We hiked part way out the canyon to Champagne Falls at mile 3 (for 6 miles roundtrip and 800 feet elevation gain) and look forward to returning to hike to the lake. We passed Grotto Falls, Twin Falls, Arch Falls, Silken Skein Fall, and an unnamed falls on our way to Champagne Falls. The trail surface is a mix of packed dirt and loose rock. In some sections footing is tedious. The trail is well shaded for the section we hiked, traveling through woods.
Palisade Falls
This short trail to an 80 foot waterfall is well worth the trip. The trail is only 1.2 miles roundtrip and gains 250 feet. The trail travels through forest on a gentle uphill climb. There is a small wooden bridge over a creek to reach the end of the trail at the base of Palisade Falls. The trailhead is also reached from Hyalite Canyon Road. Follow the directions for Hyalite Creek, but at the fork on the other side of the reservoir head left for one mile to the Palisade Falls parking and picnic area. There is a vault toilet at the trailhead.
Crescent Lake/West Shore Hyalite Reservoir Loop
Another trail starting from the Hyalite Canyon Road that travels through forest to a lake and along a reservoir. The trailhead is located 9.9 miles up the road on the right hand side, prior to the reservoir. The trailhead is called Blackmore Trail. There is a large parking lot with a vault toilet. The Crescent Lake/West Shore Reservoir Loop is a 2.5 mile loop that gains about 300 feet. The hike begins on the Blackmore Trail. Watch for a sign for the West Shore trail and follow it to its junction with Crescent Lake trail. We were slightly confused by the directions and did not take this turn but continued up Blackmore Trail thinking Crescent Lake Trail would split off a short time later. It did not. Fortunately, after some extra hiking and elevation gain we did reach a Crescent Lake Cutoff Trail that dropped down to Crescent Lake Loop.
The Cutoff Trail joined with Crescent Lake Trail where we headed right to reach Crescent Lake, a small lake in the forest. We admired the lake for a short time and then continued on to the West Shore Trail which true to its name paralleled the west shore of Hyalite Reservoir with views of Palisade Mountain. Follow West Shore Trail through the reservoir parking and picnic areas to the trail on the far side of the parking area that leads to the Blackmore Trail parking area.
Bear Creek Canyon
We have hiked this trail twice and both times are memorable for more than the views. This 4.4 mile lollipop trail gains 400 feet per Robert Stone’s guide. The trail in the Gallatin National Forest travels through Bear Creek Canyon, gaining elevation as it goes. Along the lollipop portion, there are some open lush meadows and forest. To reach the trailhead, take I-90 east from Bozeman to the Bear Canyon Road Exit, the first exit east of Bozeman. Turn right onto Bozeman Trail Road and continue 0.2 miles to Bear Canyon Road. Turn left and drive 3.6 to the parking area at the end of the road. The trail starts at the gate.
The first time (2015) we hiked most of the loop before turning back due to a large thunderstorm rolling in. It was muddy from rain the previous night. We saw bear tracks crossing the trail shortly before the loop portion of the trail, but never saw a bear. As we were returning with the storm rolling in, with about a mile back to the Jeep, the sky opened up and began dumping pea sized hail on us. If you’ve never been caught out in pea sized hail, I can assure you that it stings when it hits. After 5-10 minutes of hail, it switched to pouring rain. It was a deluge. By the time we reached the Jeep we were both soaked through. We put on our waterproof jackets which helped some, but we were sweating in them as we sped up to get back to the trailhead. It was one of those rains where your pants get so wet that water runs down into your hiking boots. The temperature was in the 50’s. Luckily we had two beach towels in the back of the Jeep which we threw on the seats. We were grateful for the heat once it started pumping out. It took several days for our hiking boots to dry out.
The second time (2017) we returned to finish what we had started. We also enjoyed the scenery along the trail the first time through. In order to mix it up, we decided to take the loop portion of the trail clockwise, opposite from the way we went the first time. This time we were hiking in late August and the brush was really thick. We hiked past where the loop should have turned into the forest and looped back around to some old cabins. After consulting the guidebook and our map, we knew we had gone to far and turned around and retraced our step. We looked carefully for the loop portion that we missed but never saw what should have definitively been a trail. To hike this loop, we recommend hiking it in the counter-clockwise direction as it would be easier to follow.
Drinking Horse Mountain
This 2.4 mile loop gains 700 feet and climbs to an overlook of Bozeman. This is one of the closest trails to town. It is located in a 40 acre parcel owned by the Gallatin Valley Land Trust. The trail overlooks the large “M” (for Montana State University) on the opposing mountain. The trailhead is reached by heading North on Rouse Avenue from Main Street in downtown. Drive 4.1 miles to the signed Bozeman Fish Technology Center on the right, across the road from the M trail. Turn right into the fish technology center and drive 100 yards to the trailhead parking on the left.
Cross the road to the trail kiosk. The access trail travels through lush vegetation, follow signs. You will cross a bridge over Bridger Creek and reach to entrance to Drinking Horse Mountain. We took the loop in a counter clockwise direction (heading to the right). The trail climbs the mountain to open to views of the Gallatin Valley to the Tobacco Root Mountains. As you continue and climb higher you will gain views of the Gallatin Range to the south and the “M” just to the north. You will descend steeply as you continue the loop back to the trailhead.
Pioneer Falls
Located in the Spanish Peaks, this trail in the Gallatin National Forest heads into the Lee Metcalf Wilderness Area. The 7.5 mile roundtrip out and back trail gains 800 feet elevation on its way to Pioneer Falls. Enroute you will parallel the South Fork of the Spanish Creek, pass through wildflower meadows, and have stunning views of Gallatin Peak, Beacon Point and Blaze Mountain.
The trailhead is reached by traveling to Four Corners which is 9 miles west of Bozeman. Take Highway 191 south toward the Gallatin Canyon for 13.1 miles. Turn right onto Spanish Creek Road. Travel 9 miles on Spanish Creek Road, passing through a portion of Ted Turner’s Flying D Ranch, where you will most likely see his bison herd. Continue to the Spanish Creek Campground and trailhead parking area.
The trail starts by crossing the bridge over the South Fork of the Spanish Creek. On the far side, bear left and follow the trail upstream. You will travel through forest and riparian areas. You will enter the signed Lee Metcalf Wilderness Area after 0.5 miles. Continue along the trail which is easy to follow until a signed junction at 3 miles for Falls Creek Trail. Take the right fork to travel the steeply up Falls Creek Trail on switchbacks to the Pioneer Falls overlook. This trail is my second favorite of those in this post.