“Like many fly fishermen in western Montana where the summer days are almost Arctic in length, I often do not start fishing until the cool of the evening. Then in the Arctic half-light of the canyon, all existence fades to a being with my soul and memories and the sounds of the Big Blackfoot River and a four-count rhythm and the hope that a fish will rise.
Eventually, all things merge into one, and a river runs through it. The river was cut by the world’s great flood and runs over rocks from the basement of time. On some of those rocks are timeless raindrops. Under the rocks are the words, and some of the words are theirs. I am haunted by waters.”
― Norman Maclean, A River Runs Through It
The Blackfoot River
As a fisherwoman, I eagerly read this novel and watched the 1992 theatrical movie of the same name. The setting is Missoula, Montana in the early 20th century. In summary, it is a semi-biographical story about Maclean and his brother, Paul, who was beaten to death with a gun butt in 1942. It is about not understanding what you love, about not being able to help those you love who may need it the most, but will not accept your help. Throughout the entire story, fly fishing is a core tenet used to metaphorically explore relationships and other topics. The fly fishing is set on one of the great rivers around Missoula: the Blackfoot.
The beginning of our hike along the Blackfoot
Established in the 1960’s, the Blackfoot River Recreation Corridor, covering 26 mile of the Blackfoot River from Russell Gates FAS (Fishing Access Site) to Johnsrud Park FAS, was established through a cooperative agreement between private landowners and public agencies. This agreement provides for public access within the Corridor, on private land up to 50 feet above the high water mark, unless otherwise posted. The river has outstanding natural resources, incredible scenery, and a multitude of recreational opportunities. Fishing, whitewater boating, recreational floating, inner-tubing, camping, hiking, swimming, or just simply relaxing are some of the activities that can be enjoyed.
While in Missoula, we wanted to get a closer view of the Blackfoot River. I did not have my fishing gear or a Montana fishing license, so we decided to hike along the Blackfoot. We chose the Whitaker Bridge to Red Rock Flat and Goose Rock Flat section of trail located in the Recreation Corridor. This easy 6 mile out and back has minimal elevation gain at about 300 feet. To get to the trailhead, drive 4 miles east of Missoula on I-90 to Exit #109/ Highway 200 East. Travel 12 miles north on Highway 200 to Johnsrud Park Road. Turn left and continue 6.4 miles to the Whitaker Bridge. Cross over the Blackfoot River and immediately turn left into the day use parking area. For the trail to Red Rock Flat and Goose Flat, walk back across the bridge and take a left, passing around a gate. Travel up an old dirt road which follows the river upstream. The trail is initially bordered by rock outcroppings and mossy ledges opposite the river and then meanders in and out of forest and grassy areas. There is a Y junction at 2.5 miles, take the left fork to an overlook at about 3 miles out. The highlight of the hike was the scenic Blackfoot River. The grasses are fairly high so long pants are recommended. Much of the trail is in full sun, so bring lots of water.
Red rocks along the beginning of the trail
Montana’s natural beauty on display along our trail
The Blackfoot
As a side note, while the novel is set on the Blackfoot River, the movie was filmed in the Livingston and Bozeman, Montana areas on the Upper Yellowstone, Gallatin, and Boulder Rivers. We spent 11 days visiting and Hiking Missoula. We were staying in our RV at the Missoula KOA.
