The Denali Highway runs 135 miles east-west from Paxson on the Richardson Highway to Cantwell on the Parks Highway. This was the original route to Denali National Park before the Parks Highway was built from Anchorage. Along the Denali Highway, you will spend a good amount of time above tree line, offering views of wide open expanses. On clear days, there are splendid views of the Alaska Range to the north and west and the Wrangell Mountains to the south. The road is generally open from mid-May to October 1. During the rest of the year it is not maintained and snowdrifts can block the route.
View of an eastern section of the Alaska Range
The Denali highway is paved for 3 miles on the west end and 21 miles on the east end. In between are more than 100 miles of graded gravel with a recommended speed limit of 30 mph. The road surface had many areas of potholes, washboards and frost heaves. Some car rental agencies in Alaska do not allow driving on gravel road, check your rental agreement before driving here.
One of many pothole sections of the Denali Highway
During our time in Alaska, we’ve run into several other travelers who have gotten flat tires on this road. Slow down for the rough sections and carry at least one full size spare tire. We slowed down and did not have any problems. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM), who manages parcels of land along parts of the road, recommends carrying “extra food and water as you cannot predict how long it will take to get help if you become stranded. Limited services are offered 20 to 55 miles apart and cell phone coverage is limited. Do not depend on your cell phone for safety.” Expect to encounter subsistence hunting (caribou and moose) and harvesting (i.e. blueberries) activities along the highway from the beginning of August until the road closes. We were here on a mid-August weekend and can affirm that the road had heavy traffic present compared to our July visit from the west end.
One of the endless scenic views along Denali Highway
BLM offers a free brochure, “Denali Highway: Points of Interest” which can be picked up at some visitors centers and public lands offices. We found one at our nearby Paxson Lake BLM campground. I believe they were available at a kiosk near the beginning of the eastern side. We explored the eastern section of the Denali Highway from Paxson and the western section of highway from Cantwell, while staying in the area of Denali National Park. Unfortunately it was rainy and overcast for both trips.
The area is used for subsistence hunting and gathering (blueberries)
Tangle Lakes Archaeological District is located between miles 16 and 38 (from the east). More than 500 archaeological sites indicate that ancient peoples inhabited the area for at least 10,000 years. This area has some of the densest concentrations of archaeological resources in the North America subarctic. Collection of artifacts is illegal. At mile 22.5, Landmark Gap, a glacially scoured cut in the mountains that formed during an Ice Age more than 10,000 years ago, has been a major caribou migration route and an Indian hunting area for centuries past. The cut provides a natural funnel for the caribou. The Nelchina caribou herd still migrate through this area.
Landmark Gap, created by a glacier, forms a funnel for caribou migration
The scenery along the Denali Highway includes views of numerous glaciers, including the Maclaren and Gulkana glaciers. Additionally, there are numerous lakes that provide excellent summer habitat for many waterfowl and shorebirds. Other wildlife in the region include bald eagles, moose, caribou, beaver and fox. We spotted multiple beaver lodges along the route and many ground squirrels.
Maclaren River and Maclaren Glacier
Gulkana Glacier viewed from the Denali Highway
One of many ground squirrels we spotted
There are numerous trails along the route which are open to ATV/UTV use. These can also be hiked, but have muddy/boggy sections which make rubber boots invaluable. The trails are unmarked. There are several formal trailheads. The bugs, including mosquitoes, can be quite heavy, especially in the wet areas. There are several vault toilets along the route. Camping without a permit is allowed at the pull-outs of the BLM administered public lands stretches. Respect no trespassing signs where posted. There are various boating opportunities at Tangle Lakes and upper Nenana, Delta, and Gulkana Rivers. BLM offers brochures on the Delta Wild and Scenic River and Gulkana Wild and Scenic River.
Wide open wilderness along the Maclaren River Valley
Colors were beginning to change, signalling the arrival of fall
Maclaren Summit is the second highest road summit in Alaska
In summary, the Denali Highway offers stunning scenery, a wide range of recreational opportunities and a chance to visit an area with a rich archaeological history. The road travels through boreal forest (taiga), wetlands and low-growing alpine tundra. The highest point of the highway, Maclaren Summit is the second highest summit via road in Alaska, second only to Atigun Pass on the Dalton Highway. A beautiful route for the prepared traveller. We travelled by Jeep and would not have wanted to drive our RV through the rough sections.
