We spent two weeks hiking and touring the spectacular geology, scenery and archaeological, cultural and historic sites of southeastern Utah. We toured Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, Natural Bridges National Monument, Cedar Mesa/Grand Gulch (including Mule Canyon Ruins), and the Goosenecks State Park which we have covered in other posts. This post will focus on three other features: Valley of the Gods, Moki Dugway, and Muley Point, which are located in the southern portion of Cedar Mesa BLM land. All of these areas are part of the historic “Trail of the Ancients”, a walk through time in the vivid deserts and canyons used by the Ancestral Puebloan.

Utah’s “Trail of the Ancients” Map from www.TrailOfTheAncients.com

Looking back toward Monument Valley (from the north) along UT-163 on our way to Valley of the Gods

We spotted this burro along UT-163 near Monument Valley on our drive to Valley of the Gods

View of “The Navajo Blanket” at the junction of UT-163 & 261, just north of Mexican Hat, Utah

Valley of the Gods

Valley of the Gods is a scenic area near Mexican Hat, Utah. It is a hidden gem with scenery similar to that of nearby Monument Valley. Valley of the Gods offers isolated buttes, towering pinnacles and wide open spaces that seem to go on forever. Monument Valley is located on Navajo Nation land and visitors exploring the area usually travel with a Navajo guide and need a permit from the tribe before hiking into the backcountry. Valley of the Gods offers similar scenery without the tribal restrictions; it is located on BLM (Bureau of Land Management) federally owned land and is open for hiking, backpacking and camping. There are no designated trails or campgrounds, but there is plenty of backcountry where you can wander and explore.

Balanced Rock in the Valley of the Gods

A 17-mile dirt and gravel road winds through the valley. It is sandy and bumpy, with steep sections. It provides a fun drive through an area that is usually deserted. It is a great place to get away from civilization – to get away from everything associated with modern life. Bike enthusiasts enjoy riding the road through the valley. The Valley of the Gods Road runs between Highways 163 and 261. The road forks away from Hwy 163 about 7.5 miles north of Mexican Hat. It winds north and west and then connects with Hwy 261 about 6.5 miles northwest of the point where Hwy 261 forks from Hwy 163.

Butte in the Valley of the Gods

Another rock formation

A monolith

View from a wash during our hike in Valley of the Gods

Another view of Balanced Rock from our hike though a large wash

 

Because of its isolated nature, people exploring Valley of the Gods need to be self-sufficient and carry emergency supplies including plenty of water. There are no facilities, no gas stations, stores or services. You may or may not see other travelers along the road. The road is recommended for high clearance vehicles. During dry weather, many people drive the road in family cars – but be advised that it can be rough. When the weather is wet, a 4X4 may be needed to get through.

The Seven Sailors formation

Final photo from the Valley of the Gods

 

The western end of the Valley of the Gods road connects with Hwy 261 just below what is known as the Moki Dugway. Goosenecks State Park is also located off of Hwy 261 and is easy to combine with a trip to Valley of the Gods.

 

Moki Dugway

The Moki Dugway (also spelled Mokee or Moqui) is located on UT-261, just northwest of Valley of the Gods. UT-261 begins just north of Mexican Hat, Utah off of UT-163. The term moki is derived from the Spanish word, moqui, a general term used by explorers in this region to describe Pueblo Indians they encountered as well as the vanished Ancestral Puebloan culture.  Dugway is a term used to describe a roadway carved from a hillside.

Looking toward the Valley of the Gods from the Moki Dugway

The Moki Dugway is a staggering, graded dirt switchback road carved into the face of the cliff edge of Cedar Mesa.  It consists of 3 miles of steep, unpaved, but well-graded switchbacks (10% grade), which wind 1,200 feet from Cedar Mesa to the valley floor near Valley of the Gods.  This route provides breathtaking views of some of Utah’s most beautiful sites.  Scenic views of Valley of the Gods and distant Monument Valley open at every turn of the dugway.

A sign warns drivers about the dugway

Heading up the dugway

Moki Dugway switchbacks

Part of the Moki Dugway on our GPS, which Mike has dubbed the Moki “Duckway” as it looks like a duck’s head

The Moki Dugway was constructed in the 1950’s provide a way to haul ore from the Happy Jack Mine on Cedar Mesa to the mill in Halchita, near Mexican Hat. The State of Utah recommends that only vehicles less than 28 feet and 10,000 pounds attempt to negotiate the dugway.  The remainder of US-261 is paved.

Muley Point

After climbing the Moki Dugway, you may wish to stop at the fantastic vista at Muley Point. To reach Muley Point, take the first road (unpaved) to your left at the top of the dugway. The Muley Point Overlook provides viewers with a panorama of the Goosenecks of the San Juan River, and the vast, sweeping valleys of the desert valley below. Mark this as a not to be missed attraction.

A glimpse of the San Juan River from Muley Point

Looking into John Canyon from Muley Point

A overview of the Goosenecks from Muley Point

A lizard we spotted at Muley Point

Karla looks out from Muley Point toward John Canyon Road and the San Juan River

A view of the San Juan River crossing on UT-163

A wild horse drinks from the San Juan River

We stayed at Goulding’s RV Park which is located in Monument Valley, Utah, about 30 miles from the Valley of the Gods. Other areas of Cedar Mesa/Grand Gulch could be combined with a trip to the Valley of the Gods, Moki Dugway, or Muley Point.  Goulding’s also offers a lodge, restaurant, gift shop, gas station, and grocery store. While in the region we also visited: Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, the Natural Bridges National Monument, Canyon De Chelly National Monument, the Navajo National Monument, Goosenecks State Park, and toured areas of Bears Ears National Monument.